After a perfect night’s sleep in the Audubon casita in great temperatures, Janna and I awoke early for a big-mile day. Once again, I felt great both physically and mentally, proving that my two mantras/mindsets/approaches to bikepacking were paying off. Compared to last year, the temperature was MUCH more mild and well above freezing as compared to before. The morning held high cirrus clouds to mark our starts. Before we knew it, we were speeding down gravel towards the “button” mountain and swinging into Babacomari Ranch property. We spilled out onto the biggest paved section, passing through the heart of Elgin and cycling about 10 miles of road through vineyards and ranches. Beautiful high bunch prairie grass spilled like an ocean to the gentle curves of the Earth’s horizon. We crossed the Sonoita-Patagonia Highway and crossed over into Las Cienegas National Conservation Area. One of my favorite areas to gravel ride, we rode through miles and miles of grasslands punctuated by yucca stalks and acacia stands. The Santa Ritas rose up as we swept down towards the road to Kentucky Camp. By now, the day had heated up so we sat under a large Arizona Oak with orange leaves, but providing good shade. We began the long climb up and up until we got to Kentucky camp. We stocked up on water and sat on Adirondack chairs under the wraparound awning porch of the historic mining building. The local caretaker invited me out back to see a rattlesnake curled up next to the back door on the wood floorboards. A few AZT southbound thru-hikers straggled in where we exchanged trail stories and conditions of our spring trip vs. their fall push. We snacked and drank water for a good solid hour and half before we pushed off into the Coronado National Forest. We biked up the flanks of Santa Ritas before spilling down sharp, steep, and curving switchbacks past mining claims before we reached the entrance descent of Box Canyon. Janna and I were both surprised by how quickly we passed through this area as the year prior it had taken us all day with tremendous effort. This time we felt strong, confident, experienced, and playful. We started to head down Box Canyon where the wash overspilled with the golden spread of fall leaves. We flew. The descent was fast and fun providing the same expansive views out of the mountains into the basin zones below. Exiting the canyon, we caught a right onto rough doubletrack that became hewn singletrack and then dissolved into miles of deep-sanded wash. We remembered this sandy section from last year. We picked up speed, set our lines straight, and cranked it hard to float over the fishtailing sand. What had felt last year like punishing terrain this year felt like a hilarious game to win or laugh when you simply sank in the sand and fell over in it. Exiting the sand felt again surprising for the speed of finishing that section. We skimmed along the pavement that upwards took drivers to Madera Canyon, but downwards led us to Green Valley. Houses began appearing along the periphery of the national forest boundary until we crossed under the I-10 and were back in the heart of the city. A few urban blocks of riding brought us to the hotel with our car parked safely in the back of the lot. We were there by 4 pm with PLENTY of time to spare. I felt strong, happy, and definitely like the joy of bikepacking has been re-won or re-birthed; it made me hungry to head back out on the Great Divide to explore some more wilderness. Bikes loaded up, we caught some food at the local Mexican restaurant before heading back north to Phoenix.
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Feeling that morning stretch after realizing the hardest part was behind us, Janna and I slept in knowing we only had ~30 miles ahead of us today. By the time we climbed out of the Triplex, the start of the Spirit World 100 was rolling down Harshaw Road passing us in the RV park. We ran out to the road and cheered the slow start front and got to see Lael Wilcox. With that, we packed up and rode into town to get the best veggie breakfast burritos ever from The Gathering Place cafe. Breakfast done, we headed to the local organic market and general store to grab some food for the next two days. Exiting the general store, we ran into two guys who just rolled into town bikepacking the same route as us. They sported full squish mountain bikes and they told us how they had raced the AZT 750. When they went in to grab supplies, we went ahead and pushed off and up Harshaw Road ourselves, following the dusty tracks of the racer-riders. The late morning was beautiful and glorious with all the colors and touches of fall in southern Arizona. Oaks and sycamores lining the riparian zones sported flashes of orange, red, yellow, and brown autumnal hues. The sky was that gorgeous blue deeply crisp of November. Janna and I both felt great and my spirits were high with how well I felt. We spun through the canyons and tumbled out onto the high grasslands where, unbeknownst to us, a fully-serviced bar stand called “Boomshakalaka Bar” was stationed with an elderly gentleman dressed like a bartender from the good old days of the west. We stopped immediately and he gave us each a shot of locally-made tequila. His name was Thomas. This bar was actually a SAG stop on the Spirit World 100, so-named because it was the first thing one of the co-founders of the event said when they crested this rise and saw the spread of grasslands before them. Thomas was awesome and we took the time to converse about the race, the area, and local history. He also was taking high-end photos of the racers and added photos of us (the three immediately below) to the mix. We would later run into Thomas months later at the grand opening of Campfire Cycling in Tucson with the movie premier of “I Just Want to Ride.” We immediately recognized each other and got his contact information which resulted in us acquiring these photos. Thomas, you freaking rock. After a few lead riders began returning, stopping the bar along the way, Janna and I decided to push on. The beautiful bunch-grass prairie spilled for miles over plains and smooth hills around us. We rode up into the Canelo Hills at Canelo Pass and swooped down past a crossing of the Arizona Trail (which I immediately recognized the location of!). We eventually hit pavement and turned right, climbing up past Lochiel. With a turn left, the Santa Rita Experimental Range spread out before us where we jumped on the rugged dirt doubletrack leading to the Audubon property. Both Janna and I were amazed how much more comfortable and fast we were moving. In fact, we got through the gate and were at the casita we rented for the night (at the Appleton-Whittell Research Ranch of the National Audubon Society) by around 3 pm. The last time we did this section, it took us nearly all-day. I felt strong, comfortable, and eager for more riding. No one was around as they were up at the main station setting up for the monthly local dinner and presentation. Janna and I sat back, ate a bunch of snacks, and kicked it on the front porch chairs. As it got closer to 5, we made our way to the potluck dinner where good conversations and an interesting presentation followed. My belly was full, the darkness complete, but the temperature was so nice that we decided to enjoy a walk in the dark before turning in for the night. Sky Islands Odyssey (East Loop) - Day 1 - The Hard Part First: Up and Over the Santa Ritas11/8/2019 All my bikepacking trips up to this point have been filled with equal parts gnawing hunger to see more of the backcountry and complete and utter physical exhaustion (wearing into the mental realm). Last year, we tackled the Sky Island Odyssey eastern loop over Veteran’s Day (our first unpaved bikepacking trip), and Janna and I were returning this year because we loved the time of year in this area. But, I felt strong nerves because of how butt-kicked I have been in body, mind, and confidence by every bikepacking outing. Bikepacking combines the best of road touring and backpacking. Yet, I still felt unconfident I could crack that flow state of performance that leads itself so well to mastery and growth. I decided on two mantras for this trip:
I’ve used mantras many times over the years to carry me through tough or uncertain outdoor moments. These two seemed primed to help me where I most struggled: (1) embracing the beauty of where I’m at when the going gets tough and (2) pushing too hard and not slowing down to the point of utter exhaustion. To further help our plans along, we decided we would start this year in Green Valley. We found a hotel that would let us keep our car in the back of their parking lot for the length of our trip in exchange for getting a room the night before. We wanted to start here as, no doubt, the ride up the Santa Ritas over the western shoulder of the Santa Ritas was the toughest length of the route, and we only discovered that on our last day the previous year. School done, we headed down Thursday evening, each of us having used a personal day to call Friday off. The next morning, we used Komoot to get on the Juan de Bautista Anza Trail (something we skipped for the paved route the previous year). It was actually gorgeous singletrack and city trail, making me glad we opted for it this time. It soon led into the deep-sanded San Pedro River bed. We skipped that 1-2 mile portion, joined the pave frontage road, and then jumped back onto the trail. Soon, we were by Elephant’s Head, heading up the road to the observatory. We felt strong, the clouds were keeping the temperatures low, and knowing the route ahead gave us stamina to get the ride in. Plus, it was gorgeous. We eased into the rocky and rutted jeep road that wound up and down washes and foothills. The route led past several mines and then suddenly we were at the bottom of the big climb. A truck was sandwiched perfectly across the entire road, side-to-side, having bottomed out on a large boulder in an attempt to turn around. A man was underneath trying to dig the large boulder out with a shovel. We asked if he needed help; he said he was good. We could get around with our bikes but ATVs and trucks could not get around this point. We started the climb, staying on the pedals, impressively not doing any hike-a-bikes. And like that, we crested the saddle and I zoomed down the steep incline where I caught some gravel and jumped off my bike as it flipped over itself. Shaken, I got back on and we cruised up and down the cow-studded hills until we were at the bottom of the other side. From there, Janna and I quickly rode the now-nice dirt road through ranchlands for miles until the Patagonia Mountains sprang into view. The ride cruised down next to the Sonoita Preserve with the deciduous riparian zone in awesome autumnal hues. We arrived in Patagonia around 4 pm, so we biked to the RV park on the other side of town and secured camping for the night. Once changed, and showered, we walked back into town where we learned that the Spirit World 100 Race/Gravel Ride was happening tomorrow. Gravel riders from all over the US were here along with Lael Wilcox joining in. We talked to several, gathered up some food, and went back to crawl into the Triplex well into the evening. Soon after getting in, a large family of javelina started rooted around the tent for several hours. Janna and I reminisced about how were here only half a year ago on the Arizona Trail before we both passed out. |